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Designs Plus » Newsletter September 2009

Volume 14:  The Select, Copy & Paste Jacket

Embroidery Products

  • BERNINA® embroidery software (Flower and Vine.art in Samples 3)
     

Materials

  • Burda® pattern #5450

  • Moda 54” wide machine washable and dryable felt (80% wool/20% nylon) or other fashion fabric as desired, and fusible interfacing as per pattern requirements

  • Water soluble stabilizer (heavy weight)

  • Temporary spray adhesive

  • Temporary marking pen or chalk

Threads

  • Machine sewing thread to match the fashion fabric

  • Polyester or Rayon embroidery thread in colors of your choice
     

Step 1. Preparation
Trace outlines of the jacket collar and pocket patterns onto the fashion fabric. Cut leaving 2-3” wide margins all around. Interface the collar. Cut out the jacket fronts, back, and facings along the pattern tissue's cutting lines. Interface the facings. Sew and press the jacket center back seam and shoulder seams.

Step 2. At the Computer
Open the design and select different elements from it. Copy and paste each element in its own new file, enlarge or reduce the size of the element as desired, and save the file with a new name. Elements selected from Flower and Vine are:

Flower: Make two copies, mirror image the copies relative to each other, and position them close together, for the lapel.

Curved vine: Embroidered on the lapel in two locations.

Flower with vine attached: Embroidered on the collar in two locations, mirror imaged.

Leaf: Make two copies, mirror image the copies relative to each other, and position them close together, for each pocket.

Step 3. Embroidery
Hoop water soluble stabilizer and spray it with temporary adhesive to make the surface slightly tacky. Mark placement points for the motif on the garment piece, using your preferred marking tools or system. Adhere the garment piece to the hooped stabilizer, move to the start position, and embroider. Un-hoop and remove excess stabilizer.

A recommended sequence for embroidering the jacket parts is:

  1. Embroider one end of the collar. Mirror image the design, re-hoop and embroider the other end of the collar. Cut away excess fabric and set the collar aside.

  2. Embroider the pockets one at a time. Cut away excess fabric and set the pockets aside.

  3. Embroider the lapel in three steps. After embroidering the flowers, re-hoop and embroider a vine on one side of the flowers. Mirror image the vine, re-hoop and embroider the second vine on the remaining side of the flowers.

  4. Embroider the full Flower and Vine design on each sleeve about 4" above the hemline and centered on the seam. Don't forget to mirror image the design when placing it on the second sleeve.
     

Step 4. Finishing
Complete the jacket assembly as per pattern instructions. Purchased or handmade frogs make great closures for this jacket.

Designer's Tip : A motif should be sized properly to be proportional to the garment it is intended for, before it is embroidered on the fashion fabric. To determine the appropriate size for the garment area, either print the motif from your computer on paper and test the paper copy for size on the garment, or cut the garment pattern piece out of inexpensive muslin fabric and embroider a test motif on the muslin. Correct and repeat as needed until you are satisfied with the size and scale of the design.
 

Click here to download a PDF file.

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Designs Plus Volume 14: Free Designs

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