Designs Plus Volume 12: Free Project
Boutique Fashions

Embroidery Products
•  Studio Bernina® Quilt Sale by Mary Lou Weidman (Licensed Collection 792)
•  Studio Bernina® KidStuff by Cheri Strole (Licensed Collection 814)
•  Bernina Editor Software
Materials
•  ½ yd. fabric (from Timeless Treasures-Tonga Batiks)
•  Grosgrain ribbon
   -  ½ yd. 3/8″ green for stems
   -  ½ yd. 1″ striped for back
•  1 pair children's jeans
•  505 Fabric Adhesive
•  Hydro-stick Tear Away stabilizer
•  AquaFilm Wash-Away Topping
•  Bernina Universal needle 90/14
•  Organ Needles for Embroidery (Titanium Coated) Sharp 90/14TS
•  EZ Glitz Hot Fix Rhinestuds and Crystals (OESD)
•  EZ Glitzer Applicator Wand (OESD)
•  2 flower buttons La Mode #1207
•  Button for center of yo-yo flower
Thread
•  Isacord polyester embroidery threads
•  Bobbin thread
Step 1. Preparation
Select a pair of children's jeans in the desired size. (Model garment is a child's size 5.) Determine the desired length of the finished skirt. The sample skirt measures 10 ½″ from the waistband to the hem. Remove the bottom portion of the jean legs 4-5″ below desired length.
With a seam ripper, remove the inner leg, front crotch seam to within 1″ of zipper, and back crotch seam 2″ below top of pocket.
The original front leg seam line will be used for the skirt but the back must be trimmed. Align front and back. Draw a line on the back leg seam ½″ from the front leg seam. Trim along line and press under a ½″ seam allowance. Repeat for second leg.
Pin approximate placement of center front seam and center back seam. (This repositioning will alter bottom edge.) Trim bottom of skirt 2 - 3″ longer than finished length. Remove pins.
Step 2. Ribbon Embellishment
The right leg will be embellished with ribbon, decorative machine stitches, buttons, and a yo-yo flower. The left leg will be embellished with embroidery designs and crystals.
Right Front - Determine the placement of the yo-yo flower stem on the right front. Mark with chalk. Spray back of ribbon with temporary spray adhesive and place along chalk line. Leaves are made from 4″ loops of ribbon inserted under the stem. Making sure the pocket is out of the way; sew the stem in place with a straight stitch on each edge of ribbon securing leaves as you sew.
Determine the placement of the small flower stems and mark with chalk. Sew the two shorter stems using a satin stitch.
Right Back - Using an open toe foot, sew a row of decorative stitches along the back side seam. Let your pressure foot ride along the seam. Bernina stitch #114 was used on sample garment.
Draw a chalk line from the side seam to the leg seam approximately 1″ below bottom of pocket. This line will be angled across the back. Spray back of ribbon with temporary adhesive and place ribbon along the chalk line. With a seam ripper, open a small section of the side seam and insert ribbon. Sew ribbon to pant leg with a small zigzag stitch along each edge. Restitch the side seam.
Step 3. Embroidery
Left Front - Select embroidery designs that coordinate with fabric. The designs used in the sample garment are Quilt Sale #31 and KidStuff #38, 40, and 44. At the computer, edit Quilt Sale #31 by removing the word Quilting. You now have HAPPY. Save.
Determine placement of embroidery designs on the front leg. All designs fit into a 5″ x 7″ hoop. No need to rehoop! Using software or templates, mark center of each design. (In this design KidStuff #40 was increased to 120% and #44 was rotated 45 degrees.)
Hoop Hydro-Stick Tear Away stabilizer in a 5″ x 7″ hoop. Moisten stabilizer and attach the leg to the hoop. Attach hoop to machine. Top with AquaFilm stabilizer. Embroider designs using Isacord polyester embroidery threads in desired colors. Remove hoop from machine. Remove stabilizers and topper.
Left Back - Determine placement of design located under the back pocket. KidStuff #45 was used on the sample. Design was increased to 150%. Follow the hooping methods above and embroider the design.
Step 4. Reassembly
Determine the amount of fabric needed for the front and back insert. The insert should extend about 2″ on all four sides. Cut two pieces of fabric for each insert. For the sample, fabric was cut 6″ x 16″ and folded to make a 6″ x 8″ insert.
Place insert into opening on front and determine placement. Pin in place and sew to bottom front seam using decorative stitches.
Place top front seam over the insert. Pin. Stitch the crotch seam following original stitching line with thread that matches original stitching. Stitch the leg seam to insert with decorative stitches.
Repeat for back insert. Instead of decorative stitches, match the double row of stitching on the jeans. Turn to wrong side and trim any extra fabric.
Step 5. Hem
Determine the length of skirt. Use chalk to mark the hemline and cut along the line.
Cut a piece of fabric 4″ wide and the width of the skirt bottom plus 2½″. Press under a ½″ hem on one short end of fabric strip. Press fabric strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Place binding on top of the right side of skirt hem and match raw edges. Pin and sew with a ½″ seam allowance. Begin stitching 3″ from hemmed end of binding. When you reach the connecting point, place the end of the binding (approx. 2″) inside the unstitched hemmed end and continue stitching until the entire seam is sewn.
Press to inside and stitch in the ditch. This will catch the binding on the inside and make a nice finished edge.
Step 6. Final Embellishments
Make a yo-yo by cutting a 4″ circle from the fabric. With a needle and double thread, sew a running stitch around the outside edge of the circle. Pull the stitches to make a yo-yo. Secure the stitches. Attach to skirt and add button center. Sew on the two flower buttons.
Attach EZ Glitz Hot Fix Crystals to embroidery designs, pocket edges, and back pockets using EZ Glitzer Applicator Wand.
Designs Plus Volume 12: Free Designs
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